Trip Overview

How is this trip report organized?

There is post for each day of our trip. To navigate through the blog simply open the Archives on the left-hand side of the page and choose where you want to go, or return to the home page to see posts listed at the bottom.  


Who was traveling?

There were four people in our group: my husband and me from Vancouver, Canada, and two of our good friends from Vancouver Island. Three of us were celebrating turning 60. We had already canceled two previously planned birthday celebrations in Hawaii because of COVID and were elated to finally get to travel outside of Canada


How long was the trip?

March 4 (2) - March 21, 2022. Our friends arrived a couple of days earlier and stayed at Playa Hermosa until meeting up with us at the Liberia airport.


Where did we go?

Click on the "more options" link on the map to open Google maps in your browser


How did we plan?

We wanted an active, outdoor holiday with lots of walking, as well as animal and bird-watching. We also like to spend time at beaches and in the water. 

This was my husband's and my third trip to CR and our friend's first. We wanted to see a lot of the country and so rented a car, visiting both coasts, as well as inland locations. 

Planning and researching holidays is one of my favorite activities. We booked all of our accommodations in advance as we were traveling during high season and wanted to make sure we got our first choices. We booked directly through the hotels, except where we used Airbnb. 


What about transportation?

We rented an intermediate SUV (2019 Suzuki ) from Vamos with full insurance. Once I saw the vehicle, I wanted to upgrade, but there were no other cars available. It was a base model, but the A/C worked and there was room for all of our carry-on luggage. The cost for 18 days was a whopping $2,026 USD.

Aside from the frustration of traveling on 2-lane highways with unexpected potholes and being frequently stuck behind slow-moving trucks, we find driving in Costa Rica just fine.


What about guides and tours? 

Good guides are amazing at spotting wildlife and seeing things that you would just never notice; like a tiny brown rainforest frog half-buried buried under a pile of brown leaves.

The downside of guides and tours is they are expensive and you are on someone else's schedule. We have mostly done guided tours on private reserves like La Selva Biological Research Station and Tapir Valley Nature Reserve, as well boat tours in Tortuguero National Park. If you have your own transportation you will rarely “need” a tour to a national park or a guide. 

We also did two boat tours out of Playa Hermosa on this trip.


L-R - Steve, Krista, Andree & Dave at Rio Celeste



L-R - Dave, Andree, Krista & Steve at Rio Negro Hot Springs





Day 1 - Liberia to Rincon de la Vieja

 

What did we do today?

  • Arrived at the Liberia airport at 7am, got our rental car from Vamos, stopped for breakfast and then drove 45 minutes to Rincon de la Vieja
  • Hiked Rio Negro Waterfalls and hiked and swam at Oropendola Waterfalls at Hacienda Guachipelin

Accommodation: Hacienda Guachipelin (HG)
Meals: breakfast at Cafe Europa in Liberia and then dinner at Hacienda Guachepilin 


We were the first international flight to arrive in Liberia that morning, so it took less than 20 minutes to go through immigration. Our two friends, who had arrived on an afternoon flight a couple of days earlier, spent 2 hours getting through immigration. 

We easily met up with our friends at the airport, and the Vamos rep, who took us all to the car rental office just down the road. Twenty minutes later we were driving away with our rental car. We stopped for breakfast at the Cafe Europa and then drove the 45 minutes to Hacienda Guachipelin at Rincon de la Vieja.

Our room wasn't ready when we arrived but HG allowed us to store our bags in a secure area.  We grabbed our sunscreen and headed for for Rio Negro waterfalls for a short and easy hike. Later in the afternoon, we drove up to the parking area at Oropendola Waterfalls where we proceeded to walk the easy 15-minute path to the waterfall. We had a refreshing swim at the base of the waterfall.

A word about bugs. The Rincon area is rife with teeny tiny biting flies. I think they call them bocones in Costa Rica. We all got bitten, but I seem to be particularly sensitive to these little devils and developed intensely itchy, ugly, purple bites. Alergical, easily purchased at the Farmacia, was my best best friend for several days.




Reviews

Cafe Europa
Cafe Europa is a convenient place to stop if you are coming or going from the airport. It has a good selection of fresh pastries and pretty decent breakfasts (Warning, don't buy the Pain au Chocolat if you are hoping for flaky buttery goodness.) The service is pleasant but very slow. 
 
Haceienda Guachipelin (HG)
This was our second time staying at HG and we enjoy it here. We had a standard room and found them to be decently sized, with good AC, and comfortable beds. All of the rooms are at ground level and have an outdoor sitting area. The hotel grounds and gardens are well tended with abundant birdlife. They also have a nice swimming pool.

Breakfast is included, and they offer extensive hot and cold selections, buffet-style. We also ate two dinners here. The service is good and the food is decent. Most enjoyable was the open-air setting and watching the birdlife in the large trees adjacent to the restaurant.

Vamos Car Rental
Confirming the car rental was easy and Vamos was very responsive in answering my pre-trip questions. We rented a mid-sized SUV (2019 Suzuki). I saw the car and immediately wanted to upgrade, but no other vehicles were available. It was adequate for the four of us, and fit all of our carry-on luggage, but it was definitely a basic model. 

We also rented the Vamos phone, which was an older model Samsung. The Vamos phone often struggled with finding cell service when my own newer model iPhone had no problem. We had hoped to use it for hot-spotting our other phones, but it did not function well that way. The Vamos phone is probably a good deal if you do not want to roam on your own phone and only count on it for WAZE navigation.

 Rio Negro Waterfalls (1 of 4 falls on this short hike)


Oropendola Waterfalls














Day 2 - Rincon de la Vieja

 

What did we do today?


Accommodation: Hacienda Guachipelin 
Meals: all meals at Hacienda Guachepilin 

You don't need a guide for either of these two walks and if you are staying at the hotel all of the sites on their property are free; you only have to pay the entrance fee to the National Park.

There is lots of information about Rincon that you can find online. But here are a few of my own thoughts. 

The boiling mud pot loop is an easy and fun hike through varied topography on the side of Rincon Volcano; much of it is shaded as you walk through the forest, but the boiling mud pots section is fully open to the sun so take precautions. We were there in March and it was very windy, and surprisingly we had rain for about 30 minutes. There are bathrooms and a gift shop at the park entrance.

The walk from Hacienda Guachipelin Hotel to Los Chorreras Waterfall takes about 30 minutes. It is all downhill walking through pretty ranchland until you reach the waterfalls. There is not much shade and it is hot. Be prepared for the uphill walk back to the hotel.

Just before we reached the waterfall we took a marked trail off to the left towards the "celestial pools". Make sure you walk to the last pool (#4) which is the best for swimming. 


Map of the HG Property


Mud Pots on the Rincon Hike




Forest Clouds at Rincon


Los Chorreras Waterfall





#3 Celestial Pool





Day 3 - Rincon de la Vieja to Sarapiqui

 

What did we do today?

  • Early morning visit to Rio Negro Hot Springs at Hacienda Guachipelin
  • Left Hacienda Gauchipelin at 11am for La Selva Biological Research Station at Sarapiqui
It was a pretty easy four-hour drive to La Selva that took us down Route 1 and then up and around Lake Arenal before joining Route 4 to Sarapiqui.

Meals: Breakfast Hacienda Guachepilin, Dinner at La Selva

Reviews

La Selva Biological Research Station: La Selva is a working biological research station that accepts paying guests. If you are a guest you are free to wander the trails on the 1,600-hectare property that is teeming with flora and fauna. Non-guests are only allowed on guided tours. 

The accommodations are pretty basic; a step up from summer camp, but it is all-inclusive (😜) with three meals a day provided. While definitely not luxurious, it is a fantastic opportunity to see birds and other wildlife. We stayed in one of the 2-bedroom family houses and so had a fully equipped kitchen that was great for keeping drinks cold in the refrigerator and making coffee. We ate all of our meals in the canteen.

Rio Negro Hot Springs








La Selva Biological Research Station at Sarapiqui




We stayed in one of the family houses at La Selva













Day 4 - La Selva Biological Research Station at Sarapiqui

 

What did we do today?

  • Early morning guided walk through trails at La Selva
  • Afternoon walk through the trails
  • Guided night hike through the trails

Meals: All meals at La Selva

We did two guided walks, one in the morning that was included with the cost of our stay, and one at night that we paid for separately. We saw many types of birds, bats, caiman, iguanas, a river otter, peccaries, bullet ants, frogs, a sleeping sloth, a kinkajou, snakes and, most exciting, a highly venomous Fer de Lance viper just off the trail and a bit too close for comfort.

The rest of the time we wandered the trails on our own enjoying this amazing reserve.







Tiny Tentmaking Bats


See the Fer de Lance in the Upper Left?





Day 5 - Sarapiqui to Tortuguero

 

What did we do today?

  • Early morning walk at La Selva
  • Drive to La Pavona to park the car and take the ferry to Tortuguero
Accommodation: Cabinas Tortuguero
Meals: breakfast at La Selva dinner at the Budda Cafe in Tortuguero

After an early morning walk at La Selva we packed up the car for the 1.5 hour drive to La Pavona where we parked the car and boarded the boat to Tortuguero.

Parking at La Pavona was $10 per day and appears to be a secure spot, but I would not leave anything in the vehicle. There is a restaurant at La Pavona with wifi on site, and for 500 colones you can use their bathrooms.

The hour-long ferry ride takes you down the river to Tortuguero and we saw caiman, toucans and iguanas along the way.

Reviews

Cabinas Tortuguero: We booked the El Manati and El Tucan riverfront rooms and were not disappointed. The rooms were clean, spacious, had AC, comfortable beds, refrigerators and we had access to a shared kitchen. The best part, however, was the large private verandah overlooking the river.

Budda Cafe - We ate at the Budda Cafe every night for dinner. Situated on the riverfront, the views are spectacular, the food tasty and plentiful, but the service was incredibly slow. 

La Pavona - Ferries to Tortuguero



Early morning time-lapse video from the verandah






Our verandah


The Budda Cafe







Day 6 - Tortuguero

What did we do today?

  • 5:45 am guided canoe trip through the canals at Tortuguero National Park
  • Afternoon walk through the park to post 51 - about 2.5 km from the park entrance
Accommodation: Cabinas Tortuguero
Meals: we made our own breakfast and ate dinner at the Budda Cafe 

Tortuguero has an amazing abundance of birds and other wildlife. During our time there we saw sloths, toucans, parrots, a flock of green macaws feeding in the almond tree at the edge of the village, various waterfowl, caimans, iguanas, basilisk lizards, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, and white-faced capuchin monkeys. 

We were fortunate to have mostly sunny weather during our stay in Tortuguero and so the trails through the park were quite dry. 

We booked our guided canoe trip with Tortuguero Adventures  as it was connected to our accommodation. We had a knowledgeable guide and traveled in a large canoe powered by a silent electric motor. 

Each day that you enter the park you need to purchase a $15 park pass. It is easy to get them online here.

Tortuguero National Park













Marker 51 on the park trail








At each marker on the park trail there is an exit to the beach



Day 7 - Kayaking in Tortuguero

 

What did we do today?

  • early morning 3-hour paddle through the canals at Tortuguero National Park
  • late afternoon 3-hour paddle through the canals at Tortuguero National Park
Accommodation: Cabinas Tortuguero
Meals: we made our own breakfast and ate dinner at the Budda Cafe 

We rented double sit-on kayaks from Tortuguero Adventures for the whole day and did two separate self-guided paddles through the park canals. Paddling through the canals with only the sounds of birds, howler monkeys, the distant ocean and the wind through the trees was one of the highlights of our trip.

The kayaks were quite stable and comfortable with self-adjusting seats. Once you enter the canals off the main river the water is absolutely calm and paddling is almost effortless. 

If you've been on a guided trip through the canals you will know your way around and don't need to worry too much about getting lost, plus there are usually other people somewhere in sight. 


Kayaking through the canals in Tortuguero National Park
















Can you hear the parrots?






Day 8 - Tortuguero to Punta Uva (via Moin)

 

What did we do today?

  • early morning walk to see a sloth in a tree on the ocean side of the village
  • 2 of our group took the 10 am boat from Tortuguero to Moin
  • 2 of our group went back to La Pavona to pick up the car for the drive south and a rendevous with the other two at Moin and then continued the drive to Punta Uva.
Accommodation: Casa Viva at Punta Uva
Meals: we made our own breakfast and picked up a take out pizza at La Leyenda Pizzeria in Playa Coccles


We've always wanted to take the 3-hour boat ride from Tortuguero to Moin. So we decided that the two of our group should take the boat while the other two took the ferry back to La Pavona, got the car, and then drove south to Moin for a rendezvous.

We were a little nervous about the plan, but everything went seamlessly. Cabinas Tortuguero booked the trip to Moin for a cost of $35 per person. The driving group had to leave an hour earlier as it took a total of 4 hours to get back to the car and drive to the ferry dock at Moin. 

The drive south on route 32 was not pleasant. The entire length from Guapiles to Limon is under construction and while there were not a lot of construction delays, there were a lot of very slow trucks on a 2-lane highway with few passing opportunities.

Using WAZE, it was easy to find the ferry dock at Moin and we rendezvoused with the boat party to continue on another 90 minutes to our destination at Punta Uva. Once you are past Limon there is very little traffic until you reach Peurto Viejo. 

Reviews

Casa Viva EcoLodge: I'm hesitant to write this review as I would prefer to keep this gem of a property a secret. This is our third stay at Casa Viva. We rented Cabin 1 which is a 2-bedroom, 1-bathroom cabin. The cabin has a fully equipped kitchen, and a wrap-around verandah, all set in beautiful gardens separated from the beach by a small stand of trees. It is clean and has comfortable queen-sized beds. Though there is no AC, there are overhead ceiling fans that keep things cool at night.

La Leyenda Pizzeria: It couldn't have been easier to place a pick-up order for pizza through What's App. The pizzas were delicious and I would definitely order from them again.

Turtle in Tortuguero


There were some big crocodiles on the boat ride to Moin








A few pics at Casa Viva

















Day 9 - Punta Uva

 

What did we do today?

  • Today was a beach day starting with an early morning walk from Punta Uva and up over the headland to Arrecife Beach where we stopped for some swimming and snorkeling.
Accommodation: Casa Viva at Punta Uva
Meals: we made our own breakfast and ate dinner at El Refugio in Punta Uva


I will let the pictures tell the story of this day that started with an early morning walk over to Arrecife Beach, a swim there, and then we spent the rest of the day hanging out at Punta Uva. This must be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Reviews

El Refugio Restaurant: This was our 5th time eating at El Refugio Restaurant and we took our friends here for a 60th birthday celebration dinner. The garden setting is lovely and the food is delicious; especially the beef in chimichurri sauce.



















Day 10 - Cahuita National Park

 

What did we do today?

Accommodation: Casa Viva at Punta Uva
Meals: we made our own breakfast and ate dinner at Selvin's Restaurant


We wanted to walk the entire length of the 8 km trail at Cahuita National Park so decided to enter the park via the southern Peurto Vargas entrance, park our car, walk the trail, exit the park at Cahuita, and then take a taxi back to our car.

The Peurto Vargas entrance begins on a 2 km boardwalk over swampy ground through a dense jungle of towering trees. Once you exit the boardwalk at Peurto Vargas there are some bathrooms before you continue about 2 km on an open beach trail with little shade until you reach Punta Vargas. The trail then continues parallel to the beach but through the trees with lots of shade, until you reach the Cahuita exit. The whole 8km is completely flat and a very easy walk.

We stopped just after Punta Cahuita for a swim. Several white-faced capuchin monkeys near Punta Cahuita were aggressively interested in our backpacks that were sitting on a beachside log; clearly, they have been habituated to being fed by humans. I had to toss a rock in their direction to scare them away. 

In 2019 we had to take off our shoes to cross the shallow Rio Suarez, but this time we were able to cross on the dry beach. The level of the river here may be dependent on tides and rain so be prepared for a wet crossing.

It was a wonderful day and we saw both capuchin and howler monkeys as well as a sloth. There were taxis right outside the Cahuita park entrance and it cost us 3,000 Colones for the 10-minute ride back to Peurto Vargas.

Reviews 

Selvin's Restaurant: Selvin's specializes in Caribbean-style Costa Rican food. I had the Caribbean Chicken: the sauce was tasty, but it was made from a very scrawny chicken without much meat and so was disappointing overall. My husband had the beef fajitas which were much better. 

We started at the Peurto Vargas entrance


The unshaded portion of the Trail after Peurto Vargas 




Near Punta Cahuita


Getting nearer to the Cahuita entrance














Trip Overview